Lovely weather

The weather has been so nice, with blue skies, a touch of breeze and just the right temperature to walk beside the Bisenzio River.

This couple were getting an early start to suntans. You can hardly see him, he is very pale indeed.

This lovely stemma was on the former Church of Tau in Pistoia. This church belonged to the Regular Canons of St Anthony the Abbot, whose cloaks were decorated with a blue “T”, for tau. 

Photographs are not permitted in this former church, so for those interested, here is information about the edifice and the remnants of frescoes that can be seen.  saint-anthony-the-abbot-or-of-the-tau

( The church is part of the Marino Marini museum in Pistoia, another branch of which is located in Florence.) museo-marino-marini-florence

Hooray!

This particular stemma (coat of arms) in Pistoia both  fascinated and frustrated me. The latter emotion was because even my super detective on the ground in Pistoia, Miky of https://passion4food4fashion.com/ couldn’t seem to locate it again in her city. She recruited a friend and they went out determined to find the darn thing. 

As I saw it last year

One day, they had a breakthrough. A boutique which was undergoing renovations, and whose facade was covered with scaffolding and protective material, was finally revealed. And, there was the mystery stemma!

On Wednesday, I finally met Miky and she took me for one of her excellent walks around the city she loves so dearly. Our last stop was at the boutique where she was able to ask the owner if he knew anything about this coat of arms. He did, indeed, much to our delight. He was not averse to a photo with the delightful Miky, whom he has known for many years.

 

Miky and the owner of the boutique, Signor Fagni

The coat of arms belonged to a Florentine family, by the name of Gargelli. 

Thank you, Miky, for your persistence.  

The Gargelli family coat of arms

In which I’m given some answers

Thanks to Miky (*)  who writes a most interesting blog, we now know what this stemma I saw in Pistoia represents. 

The pig/swine is the attribute of the Cancellieri family, who once figured in the political life of Tuscany. This particular depiction can be found on the facade of the palace that bears their name.

If heraldry is of interest to you, follow this link and run the Italian through a translator.  Cancellieri

(*) Miky blogs at https://passion4food4fashion.com/  She is trying to find some information about the other image shown on my post  frustration That’s over and above the call of duty, I reckon!

Frustration

I saw these in Pistoia, and now, of course, I’m kicking myself for not finding out more about them. What are the odds I shan’t be able to find them if I go back to this interesting city in Tuscany?

Museo Marino Marini, Florence

If you have visited the Guggenheim Museum in Venice, you may have encountered this statue L’Angelo della Città (The Angel of the City), a work of Marino Marini. I have heard the rider’s appendage is removable, in case the museum is expecting visitors who might be shocked by this enthusiastic display!

Photo courtesy of Guggenheim Museum

In one of my stumble-upon encounters, I found a whole museum centered on the works of this artist (and other contemporary artists). This is the Marino Marini Museum, located on San Pancrazio Square, Florence.

These venerable lions guard the entrance to the museum.

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There were a few ancient frescoes visible, here and there.

And a dimly lit underground tunnel that takes visitors to another section of the museum.

The morning sun cast interesting shadows onto the walls.

The museum is housed in the San Pancrazio church, which has been deconsecrated, with the exception of the Rucellai Chapel which contains this small funerary sepulchre.

Here are just a few of the works on display.

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But wait! There’s more. When you visit this museum, the ticket will give you free entry to the Marino Marini Museum in Pistoia. How’s that for a bargain? And, don’t you just love the artist’s name?

Thank you, Jane!

Last year, Jane asked me to find and take photos of  particular stemme (family coats of arms) in Prato. As  luck would have it, the site seemed to be under restoration, so I couldn’t see them at all. It was the same story at the Ospedale del Ceppo, in Pistoia, where I had hoped to see the ceramics by Giovanni della Robbia. Totally covered, totally inaccessible.

So, acceding to the wishes of Jane, today I got on the train and went to Prato, and then back to Pistoia, and I’m very glad I did.

Firstly, here are the photos for Jane. I’m sure she’ll report back as to which family (or families) owned the stemme.

Having achieved that goal, I got back on the train and went to Pistoia. Before finding the Ospedale, I had another fine meal. This time, I chose pappardelle al sugo di cinghiale (wide noodles, with wild boar sauce), and verdure saltate (sauteed vegetables). A glass of local merlot completed my tasty and healthy meal.

The Ospedale was founded in 1277, and became the main hospital of the city in 1348. (It no longer fulfills that function.)

The loggia is decorated with a ceramic glaze frieze by Santi Buglioni, portraying seven works of mercy, and scenes of the virtues.

Here are just a few of these works of art.

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The tondoes  (a Renaissance term for a circular work of art) are by Giovanni della Robbia, and depict the Annunciation, the Glory of the Virgin, the Visitation and the Medici coat of arms.

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As I turned to leave, a sign caught my attention. A tour of a subterranean area of Pistoia was on offer! I called the number on the sign, and soon met the young man from the Ospedale office who would be my guide. It turned out we would be going underneath the hospital complex, where once a river ran. The water was used to grind grain into flour, and to press olives for the oil. I guess the river has been diverted now, as we had totally dry feet during our walk.

Here are my guide and his apprentice at the end of the tour, quenching their thirst at a fountain. Thank you to both of you!

 

Sad little angel

He was on the tomb of a long ago bishop in the Cathedral of Pistoia.