Tag Archives: Pellestrina

The weather has been so kind!

After I found the monument to the bombing of the vaporetto Giudecca in Pellestrina yesterday, I spent some time exploring in this part of the lagoon.

Pellestrina looks so little on the map, but it is obviously a vibrant community.

I started my visit near the bottom end, walked for a while, then caught a bus to S.M. del Mare to join the ferry to Lido.

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This was a fruit and vegetable market

This was a fruit and vegetable market

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I got off the bus in Malamocco, to walk a bit more. I was able to see Poveglia, if only from a distance.

This island was recently put up for sale, but the attempt was thwarted by some concerned Venetians who didn’t want to see yet another (probably failed) attempt to build a luxury hotel. It has a rather interesting history, do yourself a favour and read a little of this article.  asylum-ghosts-plague-history

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In a quiet yard, I was treated to the sight of some sculptures that some of you may have seen in Venice itself.

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And, a favourite little vehicle of many visitors to Italy, the 3 wheeled Ape.

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I caught a bus back to Lido, then took the vaporetto to the Giardini stop. A very satisfying lunch of spaghetti con vongole (clams) at this trattoria on the Via Garibaldi, left me replete.

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The remains of the feast.

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I walked home to Campo Santo Stefano, trailing a cloud of garlic fumes, with a happy smile on my face, and a trace of olive oil on my chin.

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A little pilgrimage

A few months ago, Claude  oliaklodvenitiens  wrote about an incident that occurred at Pellestrina during WWII.  The link to his post (in French) is here:   la-naufrage-du-giudecca

I saved the link and waited for a fine, sunny day to make the trip to Pellestrina.

On 13 October 1944, a ferry boat (The Giudecca)  that carried passengers between Venice and Chioggia was attacked at Pellestrina by 3 US aircraft bombers. Aside from civilians, there were Italian and German soldiers on board. The ferry soon burst into flames and sank. 67 bodies were recovered, some were never identified. The number of dead is unknown, as only the names of the crew were known for certain.

A plaque in the campo in front of the Chiesa Ognissanti  commemorates this sad event, and a shrine is seen at the site of the sinking, in the waters of the lagoon.

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Here is a video that was made to record the event  youtu.be

And, a complete account from first-hand observers is found heregiudecca2000

For those with a deep interest and love of Venice, it is worth the trouble of using an online translator to read the sad words.

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The murazzi of Pellestrina

In the image below, you see the fish shape of Venice in the upper left hand corner, with the Lido to the right of the “tail” of Venice.

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This image was sourced online

 

The last time I visited Chioggia, I got off the vaporetto at Pellestrina and spent some time just walking along the sea wall (murazzo) enjoying the quiet and sunshine. You can see what a narrow sliver of land Pellestrina is, with the Adriatic to the right, and the lagoon to the left.

 

Much of Pellestrina’s seafront is lined by a remarkable feat of 18th-century engineering known as the murazzi.  These massive sea walls, designed to protect Pellestrina and keep high seas from crashing into  the lagoon, represent Herculean handiwork from a preindustrial age.

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A portion of the wall, seen from the vaporetto. Many people use the walkway as a place for walking or riding their bicycles.

Embedded into the wall is this incised marble with information regarding the massive structure. (Latin scholars, your help is sought to interpret the message which has come to us from centuries past.) 

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I was charmed by examples of recycling employed in the construction of the wall. I wonder where these lovely fragments came from, originally? Do they represent attempts to repair damage to the walls at some stage in its history?

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I’m really looking forward to getting back to Chioggia, and also exploring more of the murazzi in Pellestrina or Malamocco.

 

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’twas on Pellestrina

When I headed back from a jaunt to Chioggia, I decided to get off at Pellestrina and walk for a while, rather than immediately hopping on the bus that would take me back to the Lido.

Part of the way, I walked on the sea-wall, and then I climbed down from there to walk toward the lagoon to see what I’d find there.

A little historical note: the first stones of the murazzi (sea walls) were laid in 1744. Their purpose was to form a protective barrier for Venice, from the waters of the Adriatic. 

Was this fellow harvesting dinner for that evening?

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Were these lads skipping school? It was a nice day to do that.

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I admired the shape of these windows, and the custom designed shutter on the first one.

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There are some churches to be found in Pellestrina, including S. Demetria.

The interior of Chiesa S Demetria

The interior of Chiesa S Demetria

And, here is the Saint herself

This temple was unfortunately not open. It looked interesting.

The Tempio dell' Apparizione

The Tempio dell’ Apparizione

This looked intriguing, but I had to leave it for next time. It must be another church, but I don’t know its name.

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Someone was airing their comforter in the window, next to that elegant chimney. (Well, I think it was a comforter. Now, it looks like a trussed up body! Maybe I walked past a crime scene!)

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And, another water tower.

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 Pellestrina is another example of a location with quite a lot to offer, if you have the time and can wander around a while. The buses to and from the Lido arrive about every half hour, so you can time your detour accordingly. Have fun exploring!

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