Random art in the Toledo metro, Naples

It was fun to see what you might discover, each time you descended the escalators to catch a metro train. How in heck did they get these full size artistic vehicles down into the bowels of Naples? And, why?

Street art, Rione Sanità

One of the things that helped to convert the negativity surrounding this district, was an active pursuit and use of street art.

This huge work is on a building in the Piazza Sanità. It represents the faces of children as the hope of the future.

On the side of a church is “RESIS-TI-AMO” (a mix of “resistance” and “I love you”). The work was inspired by a true story and describes a Neapolitan couple who  overcame a terrible illness with care and love. 

And here, with yet another automotive victim of Napoli’s traffic, is a cheery example of what you can do with some brightly coloured paint.

Rione Sanità

Articles I had read about this district in Naples were divided in their opinions. One camp said “Don’t go there, it’s dangerous, it’s dirty, it’s the home of the Camorra”. The other side said “Things have changed in this district, the residents have used their pride to reclaim their territory.”

I wanted to see it for myself, and the morning was warm and sunny, so after a fair bit of my eccentric navigation, I found the Rione Sanità.

It was throbbing with people on a sunny morning, looking for the best of the fresh produce on offer.

There were folks gathered just for a chiacchierare (chat). At least one took it all lying down!

There was plenty of fresh washing hung out to dry in the spring sunshine. 

And, evidence of another failure at Giovanni’s School of Driving and Hair Removal.

I’ll bring you more about this particular district in Naples. I’ve fallen quite in love with it, to be honest.

Jane I keep forgetting to post a stemma, to feed your obsession. Here you go, one from Sanità.

 

Overheard while waiting for a metro in Naples

Sardine number one: “No way am I getting on this metro.”

Sardine number two: “But, why not?”

Sardine number one: “Well, just look at them. They’re packed in there like humans in a can.”

Something is afoot in Naples

This morning I headed for the National Archeological Museum of Naples, with the express purpose of seeing the splendid Meridian Room. Wouldn’t you just know it, the room was closed to the public, as they prepared it for a special display. I don’t look very glamorous when I cry!

Here’s what I should have seen, courtesy of an online image.

I wandered around for a while, admiring the many excellent sculptures on display. Then, for some reason, I began to study the feet of the statues. The artists must have had such a variety of models, every foot revealed some difference in their appearance. Compare these two examples. Their toes, and also the footwear are so detailed and make the statues more human somehow. (They both must have had good manicurists.)

This was Hermes, the winged messenger. His little toe looks somewhat deformed.

Here are a few more, including a couple from different branches of the animal world.

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If you were a sculptor, how would you present these modern day examples?

In response to a request for you, turtlefoodandbeyond. She hasn’t moved much since you last saw her.

And, for you Jane, a stemma.

Ciao a tutti, da Napoli

I landed with my usual thud, yesterday, and am now established in a most comfortable apartment in Napoli. Unbeknownst to the landlord, I have changed the lock on the door, and the deed of title now belongs to me. 

Here is the big front door to the apartment complex. At night, it is closed, and we enter via a little door in the big door. I like that, it’s rather Alice in Wonderland territory.

Light switches in Italy continue to puzzle me. There are several panels such as this scattered through the apartment. By the time I have sorted out which switch controls which light, I have given up the need for a light, as well as the will to live!

It has been raining off and on since I got here, quite a contrast to the dry conditions back home. But, one has to get out and do stuff, eat things and explore a little. Naples could be a rather drab city if it weren’t for the street art/graffiti that abounds. Vesuvius remains a popular theme.

And then there was this:

Porci maledetti roughly translates to “damn pigs”. Don’t ask me, I only report on what I see.

I want all politicians in Australia to read this and act accordingly in their treatment of refugees.

I feel a nap coming on. See you later.

We haven’t seen much from Clet* lately

So, I’m about to remedy that.

I spotted this in Naples. You can bet your bottom dollar I won’t be able to find it again.

* Clet is an artist who lives in Florence. He uses removable stickers to alter traffic signs into whimsical statements. I like Clet. 🙂

Another Neapolitan treat

Just up the street a bit from where I was staying in Naples,  is the former cloister of the church San Gregorio Armeno. It’s enormous, covering nearly a city block. From  the 16th century, it provides such a surprise when you enter the not very beautiful gates, which open to this view. 

It’s a long way to the top!

As you trudge up the many stairs, you can admire the ancient embellishments, such as these.

The cloisters feature a whimsical baroque fountain embellished with masks, dolphins and sea horses, and two exquisite statues of Christ and a Samaritan woman, by Matteo Bottigliero.

Photo credit: donight.it

The nuns had a bakery, where you can still see the utensils they used. I do believe these nuns were responsible for the hip expanding, but delicious, pastries known as sfogliati.

I don’t know what these were used for, but aren’t they pretty?

The nuns could sit in these little niches to see and hear mass being celebrated. Maybe hear, better than see? I’ll check out the view when I get back to Naples.

Because they were cloistered nuns in the past, near the main entrance you will find two little doors with revolving platforms that served as the means to receive food, clothing, letters and so on.

A pretty little chapel was accessed via a flight of stairs.

A delicate little chapel

There are still nuns living in the cloisters. Among other things, they teach dozens of cute little knee high urchins that call these surroundings their kindergarten.

It’s well worth a visit, if you ever happen to be in this fascinating city.

Ta-Da! Thank you John

For those of you who might suffer from short term memory degradation, here is a reminder for you. This image first appeared in a post a few days back, but unfortunately,  none of us could fully understand the dialect of Naples.

Thanks to a bloke who lives down in the big capital city of the fair state in which I live, and thanks to him having a friend who could do the job, we now have a translation. 

(I think I’ll just hand my post over to the bloke and Maxine!)

The new commandments of a true Napoletano

1.  The football team of your heart is Napoli
2.  On Sunday you must eat Pasta with meat sauce
3.  Every day you must say something in Neapolitan Dialect
4.  At Christmas time you must eat Struffoli, and at Easter the Pastiera* and the   Casatiello**
5.  You get angry at Naples, but if you leave it you long for it.
6.  You spend all your money,
7.  You’d stay in bed all your life.
8.  You’ll do everything tomorrow.
9.  You don’t do anything, but if you must, let someone else do it.
10. You are born tired and you want to rest during the day and sleep at night.

[There you go Yvonne. From one of my Australian Italian friends who was born in Tunisia.]

• *   If you’re wondering what pastiera is:    pastiera
• ** If you’re wondering what casatiello is:  casatiello

Not quite Banksy, but interesting

Scattered around Naples, often in tiny side alleys, street artworks of varied kinds can be found.

What is the meaning of life? What is the meaning of this piece of “art”?

There must be a story/legend attached to this one. I hope someone can enlighten us.

This one was intriguing, it is written in the Neapolitan dialect, and seems to be the new 10 commandments for true Neapolitans. Is there anyone in the group who can translate this for us? Number 4 caught my eyes, it seems to be what to eat at Christmas (Natale) and Easter (Pasca).