I went to the left for a change

Most people head straight ahead, or to the right when they get off the vaporetto in Lido.

One sunny day, with time on my hands, I turned left for a change, and I was happy that I had done this.

This looks like a nice little hotel. You’d have a view back to Sant’Elena from those front rooms.

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There were no hordes of tourists here.

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A colourful, quirky apartment building.

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That’s Forte Sant’Andrea in the distance.

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A glimpse of the Jewish cemetery. The Venetian Republic granted land for this purpose to the Jewish community in 1386.

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That roadway leads to the Nicelli Aiport. You can take helicopter rides of varied lengths from here, to get a bird’s eye view of Venice, the lagoons and the many islands scattered in the lagoons.

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Here is the campanile of the Chiesa San Nicolò, which was rebuilt on this spot in the early 1600s. (The original Benedictine church was founded in 1044.)

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The Roman numerals translate to 1648.

It has an austere façade and entrance.

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Near the end of my stroll of exploration, I saw the remains of the Forte Sant’Andrea across a narrow stretch of water. This fort was part of a defensive network for Venice. (Giacomo Casanova was imprisoned here in 1743.)

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Sometimes it pays to get out of our comfortable little ruts!

48 Comments

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48 responses to “I went to the left for a change

  1. Liz

    I like that quirky building. I wouldn’t mind living in it. Lovely photos. I’ve enjoyed browsing.

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  2. If you keep walking you get to San Niccolò where the marriage between the Republic of Venice and the lagoon takes place every year in May. Its a lovely little church and very peaceful! I’ll definitely turn left next time I’m exploring the Lido, thanks for the inspiration!

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    • There’s really a lot to discover on the Lido. If you happen to be there on New Year’s day, don’t miss the mad folks who take a dip in the Adriatic. Some people have been doing this for many years, including a group from Holland. I’m content to watch them and then eat the lentils (but not the cotecchino, non mi piace).

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  3. That was a very long walk! Did you walk your way back to the vaporetto stop?
    Great post, Yvonne. The Nicelli airport is a true gem, in operation for more than a hundred years.

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    • Hi, Daniel. It was a very satisfying walk. I took the ferry back to the Tronchetto, just for a change, so I didn’t have to walk all the way back to the vaporetto stop.

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  4. Beautiful shots, Yvonne. My husband has Italy on his bucket list for next year. He’s Italian and never been there. I’m not and I have. I definitely want to return! 🙂

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  5. Thanks for the tour and good advice all round.

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  6. Caroline

    You can also have lunch at the restaurant at Nicelli airport, overlooking the wee runway – the one time I’ve been it was good, with some interesting 20s/30s decor, an exhibition about D’Annunzio (probably longterm), quite nice food & interesting goings-on to watch.

    And you can somettimes (as I did that day) see an art exhibition in the cloisters at San Nicolo’.

    I think I’ve read you have to take a tour to see round the Jewish cemeteries, is that your understanding too? And I seem to remember there’s an old Protestant cemetery round there somewhere, perhaps under the airport. Nowadays, we (!) have our own bit on San Michele, where we’ll be next Monday (above ground, DV).

    Hadn’t heard of the Forte Sant’Andrea before! I wonder if that might be the next place to be taken over and tidied up by volunteers? (Did you make it to Lazzaretto Vecchio last time?)

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    • I’m unsure about whether you have to book a tour to visit the Jewish cemeteries. Perhaps I’ll ask at the museum the next time I’m in the ghetto.

      So, you have your own little plot of land on San Michele! I can just see the tourists in many years hence paying homage and leaving flowers!

      Forte Sant’Andrea can be visited, I wonder if that holds true for winter months? http://www.veneziasi.it/content/view/?id=1854&lang=en

      Another Forte that is accessible is Forte Marghera, (Mestre). I wouldn’t mind seeing that again. http://starforts.com/marghera.html

      You’ve still got a lot to discover in your city!

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      • Caroline

        Thanks for the extra info about Forte Sant’Andrea – must remember it needs to be done. Indeed, we still have much to discover!

        I often pass Forte Marghera on the bus but still haven’t got off there – even when it hosted Tuvalu’s first Biennale pavilion 2 years ago, to my shame. (But as you may remember they got promoted to the Arsenale this year, happily.) Un bel di’…

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  7. Andante

    You’re right … we realised we’ve always gone straight ahead or to the right when arriving at the Lido vap. stop! Mind you, we have encountered several of the images you showed ( after greeting several of the beautifully self-possessed cats of the Lido) on our return journey to the vap stop… so we must’ve turned left somehow at some point? Not met the Jewish cemetery yet, but you never know … next time we get there? Hope it’s not too long to wait!

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    • The only thing that makes me give the Lido less than a perfect mark is the presence, not of my two pesky tourists, but of pesky automobiles. Some years ago, I spent an hour or so exploring the remains of what was a busy hospital on the eastern side of the island. It was an interesting, spooky experience.

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  8. Time was missing for us to go to Lido so you complete our visit . Thanks.
    But we visited three islands very different , the last one was almost empty but offered a wonderful church . I do not recall the name at this moment . I have to research in our photos .
    Coming back from that island our vaporetto avoided just a gigantic cruise ship . Those are monsters that destroy the foundations of the Venetian buildings.
    Love ❤
    Michel

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    • I’ll be interested to know which of the islands you visited, especially the one with the church, Michel.

      Do you think we’ll see a sensible solution to the presence of those monster cruise ships coming through the Giudecca Canal during our life times?

      Hugs ❤

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  9. Thanks for the beautiful wander around – I agree that listening to your instinct and trying something new can always reap huge benefits.

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  10. Colourful, quirky and not many tourists. Sounds perfect!

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  11. What fun! Thank you for sharing this, Yvonne! Yes, taking a new route often leads to finding new experiences and new treasures! 🙂
    Sometimes I go a different direction, but thinking I’m going the right direction, and that is a whole other story! 😮
    HUGS!!! 🙂

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  12. Yvonne, it looks like going left was a lovely choice. I was fascinated by the Jewish Cemetery. Is it still in use? ~Terri

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  13. Thank you for that! When we spend a limited amount of time in Venice (and Lido), we tend to see the typical things. Nice to have the other perspective!

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  14. One day I think I will go left. And I hope things will be as bright as all those of yours

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  15. I agree with Cynthia. Knowing now that you are a burnt-out trendy lefty makes all the difference. A great step forward – I mean, a great step to the left.

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    • Burnt out? Burnt out! You’re off my Krismas Kard List (if I had one).

      One small step to the left for womanhood …

      Oi! I just looked at my stats. Confess, who else from NZ is as discriminating as my very best NZ friend, Bruce??

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      • Your discriminating NZ friends are either Pauline or Sylvie or both. Am I right? I’m glad you stepped left anyway, as we wouldn’t have seen those lovely pictures. I feed the pigeons once in St Mark’ Square, and got pooped on from a great height – just like now!

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  16. Now that I know you’re a leftist, I will be more circumspect…..enjoyed the photos, Yvonne.

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  17. Ahhh Venice! Love the diversity of the tour. Quirky buildings to the cemetery.

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  18. That little hotel looks so charming. I’d love to stay there.

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  19. If I ever go to Venice, I will be consulting you first!

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  20. I do like the photo of the Jewish cemetery. It is never too late to take a turn to the left.

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