It is often remarked that just a few steps away from the bustle of Piazza San Marco takes you into areas free of tourist hordes.
Rio Tera de le Colone, and the Sotoportego dei Armeni which runs off it, illustrate this beautifully. It was so quiet, with barely a person on the streets. Perhaps it’s different in summer?
There is an Armenian church tucked into the sotoportego, open for mass on the last Sunday of the month, apparently.