Murano

Many people say that Murano is not worth going to, unless you’re in the market for something made from the special Murano glass. I always enjoy going over there, and have to confess I have yet to go into a glass making fornace, nor have I bought anything glass. I just like walking in yet another place that has no cars, trucks, etc. There is always something interesting to see/discover.

There are two churches well worth seeing: San Pietro Martire (make sure to go into the Sacristy), and SS. Maria e Donato, where I marvel at the beauty of the mosaic floor, among other things.

On the 4.1 vaporetto, heading north to Murano from Fondamenta Nove

The thermometer read well below freezing last night, and I found out the hard way that there was slippery ice on the pavement not yet touched by the sun. I hadn’t expected to go skating without blades!

 
Well, I’m not sure what he represents, but isn’t he cute?
 

This sign tells a story of past frustrations, perhaps. (Oh, the dreaded woman in red has come back.)

Here is Murano’s version of the Grand Canal, and it serves the same purposes as the one in Venice.

The first photo shows an aspect of the campanile of the Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angeli that I had never seen before.  This church has been undergoing much needed restoration work, for years now. I wonder if it will ever be finished? A sign indicates that there is entry from a calle to the side of the church. But, the gate has always been locked.

This time, when I walked around there, a gentleman who seemed to be a caretaker, arrived at the same time. He said “Certo”‘, when I asked if I could go in. I found a vegetable garden, with wintery types of vegetables growing, and that’s also when I was able to see the campanile from the back. The Sacristy, where mass is now held, was locked tight, so I wasn’t able to go in and find anything to report to you. But, that was one small step closer to success, anyhow.

The second photo shows the sort of damage the restorers will have to deal with.

I almost visited a small glass fornace today, but when I went down the calle, I found they were closed until February. I did find this tempting mountain of broken pieces of coloured glass, though.

Here and there, I saw some rather old  carvings, on walls and columns.

And, just before I went  for a well deserved cup of coffee and a brioche, I saw these worn mosaics.

So,  if you’re in Venice for a reasonable length of time, please don’t write off Murano. It has an atmosphere and rewards that are all its own.

Even Murano has at least one pissotta. I didn’t look for any more.  

 

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18 Comments

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18 responses to “Murano

  1. Caroline, I’ve only been through Pellestrina, on the bus, on the way to Chioggia. That reminds me, I should go back there again, for a longer visit this time.

    Have you read The Glassblower of Murano, by Marina Fiorato? How did your day in front of the class go?

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  2. Caroline Jones

    Beautiful photos ! And some really inteesting, unusual sights too, like the pile of broken glass – thank you !

    (Sigh, it does seem to have been sunny *every* day there since I started following your blog. Whilst here in Edinburgh it has been at least 3 elements out of cold, grey, rainy & very windy every day.)

    Glad you enjoyed Murano. Before last year we’d been twice, getting off at the Museo vaporetto stop, and not thought that much of it – it seemed only OKish (by Venice standards !) to wander round, visit the churches and have lunch on its ‘Grand Canal’. The stuff in the glass shops all seemed horrible – to my taste (which is for the modern) anyway – whether cheap or very expensive. But last summer we went again, this time getting off at Colonna, and what a difference ! It seemed much lovelier in general and the glass shops – some of them, at least, much more to my taste. Have yet to get really off the beaten track, though. The Donna Leon book set there (was it ‘Through a Glass Darkly’ made it seem very atmospheric, if a bit scary ! Ditto her book set in Pellestrina – have you been there, Yvonne ?

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  3. I sure will try to be careful, Jan, I don’t want a drastic kind of souvenir of Venice!

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  4. Be careful Yvonne, mind you don,t fall, you know what can happen to us dare I say, O…….ies

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  5. Mary, you and Jon will have to have a longer visit next time. The clock fairly whizzes along when you’re here. Has anything changed in Oz? How is Molly?

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    • MaryK

      Nothing has really changed – just the same old, same old……. usual January ‘holiday mode’ everywhere (particularly here with 1,000’s of visitors everywhere) – and the tennis is on the TV so I’m happy.
      Molly is speaking – but still in intensive care (so things looking okay-ish).

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  6. MaryK

    Oops with the ‘woops event’ and glad to hear nothing damaged apart from pride. Those ice-covered stones are lethal aren’t they?

    I love the quiet areas of Murano- both the domestic parts and the more remote fornaces, and always try and make time for a visit to see the floor at Maria e Donato. I didn’t make it out for a visit this trip – but it’s on the already longish list of things to visit next time (and I’ve only been home 12 hours!)

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  7. Maite, we are having such splendid winter weather. I’d better make the most of it while it sparkles.

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  8. De belles photos et quel ciel bleu !Allez sur mon blog : une petite récompense virtuelle …Buona giornata, a presto !

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  9. Michelle

    PS My father was a glazier( the guys who put in windows) and also did some artistic glass…etched work. I have a mirror he made with his dad (my grandfather of course) that they both signed on the back.
    Maybe the glass is in my blood and that’s why I love Venice.

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  10. Michelle

    Oh, those slippery stones! Yikes!
    I went to Murano on my very first trip and just walked and walked and finally stopped at a fornace that was away from most of the others. Of course it was October so the show was still on. Didn’t buy anything though…out of my price range. I did love wandering around some of the back calles thinking “I could live here”.

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  11. Yvonne that is a fabulous photo of the ride on the vaporetto!!!
    The water just sparkles!
    I really like Murano too. My sister & I have spent a few nights there…it’s lovely later in the evening and early in the morning. There are some wonderful quiet spots.
    Yvonne are you ok? Anything sprained …..

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    • Linda, it was a pretty darn cool day, but the sun was doing its best to make things look beautiful.

      Nothing hurt, just one of the ‘whoops’ events. It made me slow down and pay attention.

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  12. I had no idea about Murano. Thanks for these pictures and the info.

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